Upper Mustang

Upper Mustang

To trek in Upper Mustang is a rare privilege. Here you will experience the way of life of true mountain people, who were not much in touch with the rest of Nepal for hundreds of years, and even until recent times had an officially recognized king. In many ways, a trek into Upper Mustang is similar to trekking in Tibet, as geographically it is a part of the Tibetan plateau. The district of Mustang was, until 1950, a separate kingdom within the boundaries of Nepal. The last king, the Raja of Mustang, still has his home in the ancient capital known as Lo Manthang.

Upper Mustang was opened to non-Nepali trekkers only some fifteen years ago and even today, access is still highly restricted. To enter Upper Mustang, that is to travel further north from Kagbeni, trekkers need special trekking permit and must be accompanied by a government appointed officer. Upper Mustang, being in the Himalayan rain shadow, is one of the regions in the country suitable for trekking even during monsoons. During this time, the upper Kali Gandaki valley is still quite dry with only occasional rainfall.

The Mustang trek is not particularly difficult, the highest point reached being only 3,800 meters, but the conditions at times can be arduous. Mustang is cold in winter and is always windy and dusty through the year. Winter treks are best avoided due to harsh weather. There are few accommodation facilities available above Kagbeni, so groups must be fully self-sufficient, especially in fuel. While porters are available in Jomsom it is preferable to use mules to carry the loads up to Mustang. These pack animals are available locally and are more economical, and certainly more environmentally friendly than porters.

Mustang trek requires a minimum of 9 days, starting and ending in Kagbeni. This allows the trek to be completed within the 10-day period that the permit allows. The route generally follows the Kali Gandaki valley but, occasionally climbs high above the valley walls. The settlements are scattered and there is little sign of cultivation between villages. In Mustang, little grows without irrigation, thus the region resembles a desert albeit mountainous, nuclear settlements in fertile areas.

Lo Manthang, the old capital, is reached in four days and at least one extra day should be spent here to catch the sights and sound of this unique walled settlement. Ponies are available for hire if you so desire. The return trip can either follow the same route while entering or, as an alternative route, the eastern bank of the Kali Gandaki may be followed.

Geography

Kali Gandaki riverbed in Nepal's Upper Mustang. View from Thsele down to the Kali Gandaki river and the fields of Chusang village, with Nilgiri's steep north face. The main hydrographic feature of Mustang is the Gandaki River. The river runs southward towards Nepal Terai, bisecting Mustang. Routes paralleling the river once served as a major trade route between Tibet and India, especially for salt. Part of the river valley in the southern Mustang District forms the Kali Gandaki Gorge, by some measures the deepest gorge in the world.

Traditional Mustang (the Lo Kingdom) is 53 km (33 mi) north–south at its longest, 60 km (37 mi) east–west at its widest and ranges from a low point of 2,750 m (9,020 ft) above sea level on the Kali Gandaki River just north of Kagbeni to 6,700 m (22,000 ft) at Khamjung Himal, a peak in southeast Mustang.

History

Mustang was once an independent kingdom, although closely tied by language and culture to Tibet. From the 15th century to the 17th century, its strategic location granted Mustang control over the trade between the Himalayas and India. At the end of the 18th century the kingdom was annexed by Nepal and became a dependency of the Kingdom of Nepal since 1795.

Though still recognized by many Mustang residents, the monarchy ceased to exist on October 7, 2008, by order of the Government of Nepal. The last official and later unofficial king (raja or gyelpo) was Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista (1930–2016), who traced his lineage directly back to Ame Pal, the warrior who founded this Buddhist kingdom in 1380. Ame Pal oversaw the founding and building of much of the Lo and Mustang capital of Lo Manthang, a walled city surprisingly little changed in appearance from that time period. In 2007, a shepherd in Mustang discovered a collection of 55 cave paintings depicting the life of the Buddha.

6 things you should know about Upper Mustang

1. Permit for Upper Mustang

Upper Mustang is a limited area trek. A unique restricted place permit is needed to do this trek. A minimum of 2 trekkers is mandatory. Hikers must trek with an authorized travel firm of Nepal. So, you would not be capable to trek independently even if you planned to pay the higher $500 permit fee. The permit for Upper Mustang is $500 per person for ten days. It is costly for the traveler who is on budget. But, the top permit fee means a lower number of trekkers. So, you would not meet lots of people when you are trekking.

2. caves

There are lots of in Upper Mustang. Some of them are well travel around while some are still strange to the outer globe. Chhoser cave is amazing, with 50 plus individual rooms and 4 individual level, all of which are linked by a ladder. In the history people lived in the cave, rather than in villages. You have to purchase a ticket to enter the cave and a domestic guide will accompany you on your cave trip.

3. Lo Manthang

Lo Manthang, the last big settlement in the Mustang North, is the capital of Upper Mustang. It is generally called as the “City of Clay” and “City of wall”. In the past, to save the Kingdom of Lo, a big wall was built around the village, and everyone was needed to construct their homes within this wall. Lo Manthang was separated into 4 quarters.

Now, as the population grows, there is no ample area inside the wall and you can find several new homes outside the wall. Today, a large resort is also under construction under the administration of former crown price of Lo Manthang.

4. Monasteries

Upper Mustang is often addressed as “little Tibet”. Monasteries are a vital part of daily life in this place, and there are many of them – each town has their own cultural diversity. In Lo Manthang itself, there are 3 old monasteries, with the oldest one, known as The God House, being seven hundred years old.

Naturally, there are remarkable stories behind the monasteries. Your hotel in Lo Mangtang will provide you a free domestic guide for the day – a best window in the domestic culture – and can also arrange a meeting with the King of Lo Manthang. Exactly, with the changing polities of the Nepal, he is longer viewed by the administration as a King but to the domestic people, he remains Royal.

5. Festivals

Tiji festival is the most vital festival for people of Lo. After Tiji, Horse Race or Yartung, is the next big festival. This is celebrated domestically in different villages. Domestic people adorn themselves in their traditional jewellery and costumes to participate in this festival where there are separate horse races for women and men.

6. Salt trading route

Mustang is a part of the old Trans-Himalaya salt trading road where salt, and other goods, were exchanged from Tibet to India. Being the little road from Tibet to India, the track followed the blustery banks of the River Kali Gandaki and brought much required income to the place as well. As Upper Mustang is in the rain shadow of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges of Himalayan, water sources are extremely scares and life depends around animal husbandry and trade with Tibet.

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